DIY guide to remove Proton Gen2 head unit, and to add in AUX cable.

Finally, after a few days of searching high and low in the world wide web for information, I decided to put my hands down and to use what I've learnt.

The existence of the Aux in my factory fitted car head unit will save me a small bundle of money and unnecessary trouble of having to convert mp3 to wav then burn to a CD.

Wednesday, after a brief reading of the scarce information on some forum, I then dismantle the head unit, but was stuck as I do not know the exact location of the remaining two screws which are hidden by the lower panel. I stopped, reducing the risk of breaking any plastic parts, which may be too costly to replace later on.

Off I went to research further, hopefully to be able to make some changes later on. And by chance, I managed to gather more information of the Aux pinout diagram and the 3.5mm stereo
jack wiring diagram as well. And as minutes and hours passed by, discovering more and more information needed for the project, I have a very vague understanding of how to dismantle the
head unit now. Armed with information passed by a very experienced DIY sifu, I decided to start the project on Friday night. At least, I've got Sunday for any remedial action if things gone awry.

I managed to remove the head unit from the dashboard by removing the top multi-switch panel using a butter knife, then remove it from the panel by unscrew the two screw by the side of the switch controller. Disconnect the two wiring socket was quite difficult as the black socket on the right was quite tight.



After the switch controller is out of the way, there's two screw which fasten the head unit housing in place firmly. It's clearly visible and a good Phillips screwdriver will unscrew the two screws in no time.



Then, unscrew the two screw which fasten the bottom panel so that you can pry open enough space to see the screws that fasten the housing of the head unit.



Using a butter knife, pry open bottom panel through the small gap between the head unit front's panel and the bottom panel. You'll see the screws on the bottom of the housing. I used a small screwdriver to place between the two panel to create a gap so that lesser effort to be used to create a space, and also minimizing the risk of breaking the bottom panel through excessive force. It's advisable to use a good long Phillips screwdriver with magnetic end so that you'll be able to retrieve the screws after unscrewing it.

After the two screws are out of the way, pull the head unit towards you slowly, making sure that there's nothing is blocking it. The bottom screw holder on the housing will brush against bottom panel, scratching the paint work if you neglected the bottom part while pulling the head unit.

While the head unit is halfway out of the dash, you'll be able to peep through the wiring at the back of the head unit. Make a note of it and disconnect the antenna jack on the right, then the 3 socket on the left. Remove the head unit and you're on your way to your next project.



In this project, I'll be adding an AUX cable so that I can plug into any device to listen to mp3.

I got myself some connectors, cables, heat shrink tubing and a 3.5mm stereo jack through some electronics shop down the road. One down is the smallest pin connector they have is still bigger than clip on the head unit, therefore, there's need for some modification, or else, there'll contact between the pin beside. I had the cables soldered to the 3.5mm stereo jack accordingly by the technician at the electronics store for convenience.





Back at home, I sleeved the cables into the heat shrink tubing so that the looks will be neater. Then, trying on the pin connector on the back of the Aux pin. Using a pliers, I then sized the pin connector to the correct size so that it'll fit snugly into the pin even if there's alot of shaking. I also removed the top tubing and resize it so that there'll be enough space for the other two connectors. After making sure all three pins are able to plug into the pin nicely and tight. I sleeved them into the heat shrink tubing, covered the whole pin, so there will be no contact with the other pins no matter what. Reducing the risk of short circuits.

Shrink the tubing, making sure they're fitted. Then plugs the connectors to the corresponding pins. Do some shake test to ensure they won't drop out in any case.



Then, off I go to the car to reassemble the head unit back to the dash. Now, you'll see there's two hole for the wiring to the head unit. Lead the cable to the hole on one hand, and pull the cable from the bottom of the dashboard. leaving sufficient length of cable in the head unit space so that the pin will not disconnect if you happens to pull to hard in the future.



Then slowly, push the head unit back to it's place. Making sure that the bottom screw holder do not scrap the bottom panel nor the top panel does not go too high. T

At the same position where you disconnect the socket earlier, reconnect them back, making sure you do not mess with the three AUX connectors by accident. Don't forget the antenna jack. Push the head unit to it's place firmly and test for functionality. Makes sure everything is working fine as when you remove it.

Screw the top two screw first, that will put the head unit in place firmly while you screw the bottom part. Just like earlier, carefully pry the bottom panel and place a screwdriver to create a gap. Then, screw back the two screw to secure the bottom housing.

Now, screw the bottom panel.

Place the multi-switch controller back to it's place and reconnect the two sockets. Place them back firmly and screw the two screw to it's original place. Test the switch for functionality. Makes sure everything is working. Then, place the top cover back.

And now, think of how to arrange the AUX cable nicely so that it'll not create a nuisance when you're driving.



Hope this will help. If you need any additional information, place a comment and I'll try my best to answer them.


Cheers,

Andy "Shackks" Ooi